20th July 2016, the day had finally arrived! At 9.00 pm, our plane departed from Brussels for Munich, where we could connect to our flight to Johannesburg. We arrived in Johannesburg at 7.30 am and had our connection to Cape Town at 10.00 am. We were met there and taken by taxi to our first guesthouse, Sweet Lemon. We had the entire first floor, like an apartment, at our disposal.
After a warm shower, we took a taxi to Table Mountain and then went up by cable car. Beautiful views over Cape Town! We returned with the “hop on hop off bus” and bought pizza on the way, which we ate in our apartment. The weather was clear and around 15/16 degrees all day. We went to sleep around 9:30 PM, tired but content.
On 22 July, we'll get up around 8:30 AM and our hire car will be delivered around 9:00 AM (after a lovely breakfast). We'll set off in this car for Cape of Good Hope, via Scarborough and the beach, have coffee in the garden at Hub (article from de Volkskrant), and then drive on to the southernmost point. At the Cape of Good Hope, our daughter's apple will be snatched by a lightning-fast monkey. A bit of a scare! Beautiful views over the sea, and we also visited the penguins at Cape Point. A bit touristy, but nice to see penguins waddling so close in the sea and on the beach. We'll return via Muizenberg and have dinner at Bardelli's in Cape Town (Kloof Street). We'll have a glass of wine at home and happily go to sleep at 11 PM.
On July 23rd, after breakfast (partly cloudy with some rain), we went to Woodstock to “The Old Biscuit Mill’, where there are all sorts of market stalls and little shops. Now and then there was a heavy downpour, but luckily we were able to take plenty of shelter. When we got back to the car, we saw that the rear window had been smashed with a stone. It was stupid of us to have left a bag (with some light clothing and flip-flops for everyone) in the back of the car... We spent the afternoon visiting the police station and swapping the rental car at the airport. At 5 PM we were back in Cape Town and had a delicious sushi dinner at ‘Beluga’ (recommended by Steyntje).
On July 24th, we leave around 10:30 am via Swellendam (a beautiful route) and Calitzdorp (tea and scones) to Oudtshoorn. The temperature will drop to about 14/15 degrees and it will be cloudy. Around 6 pm, we arrive at Baron de Reede in Oudtshoorn where we are warmly welcomed by Zoë and Huw with coffee by the fireplace. At the Black Swan, we eat ostrich, which takes a bit of getting used to, but is very tasty!
July 25th, after a cold night (7 degrees and snow on the highest mountain) we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at this hospitable accommodation! We walked through Oudtshoorn and had coffee at ‘Coffee and Beans’, a nice place. We drove to the waterfall around midday, but it turned out to be closed. The wine tasting was also closed due to the bad weather, 10 degrees and rain. We did see a lot of ostriches along the way. We decided to read by the fireplace at the end of the afternoon. In the evening, we had authentic Bobotie at ‘Nostalgie’, delicious! After a game of cards in our daughters' room, we went to sleep.
On 26th July, we wake up to the sun! After breakfast, we set off and drive through the beautiful Outeniqua Mountains to Knysna, where we arrive at Amanzi Lodge. It's a very luxurious guesthouse, and we can explore the area by bike. The weather is lovely! We take a load of laundry to the launderette and go to see Knysna and eat at ‘34 Degrees South’, a delicious and cosy fish restaurant by the water. Truly enjoyable, and the associated shop is also worth a look. We eat oysters and fish. After returning, we read by the fireplace and looked at the itinerary for the next day.
On the 27th of July, after a delicious breakfast, we drive to Brenton on Sea and Lake, a beautiful coastline, and then on to Plettenberg. Also a very beautiful coast, unfortunately we couldn't spot any whales due to the strong wind. In the afternoon it's cloudy, we have coffee in a nice bookshop and drive back to Knysna. On the beach in a wonderful spot, we have dinner at ‘Senza’, an Italian restaurant.
28th July starts with cloud cover. We'll inform if sandboarding is possible, unfortunately not due to too much and too wet sand. Bungy jumping is possible! In Bloukrans, Emma (daughter, 16) will take the 216-metre jump, terrifying! But very brave and a special experience that was recorded on video. Afterwards, we drive to the magnificent Tsitsikamma mountains where a type of suspension bridge crosses the Storms River. After a long journey, we arrive at the Addo Elephant House where coffee awaits us. We are staying in two large ‘colonial’ houses.
On 29 July, after yet another lovely breakfast, we head to Addo Park to spot elephants. We are successful and also see zebras and a large tortoise. It's quiet in the park, lightly cloudy, and a pleasant temperature. Midday, we drive to Port Elizabeth airport, return the car, and fly to Durban. Around 6 PM, we arrive in Salt Rock at the guesthouse ‘Petit Provence’. This looks very different from our previous accommodation, but it’s also fine. At ‘Ziggi’s’, a German restaurant, we eat schnitzel, what else...
On July 30th, it's sunny and after breakfast, we drive to Durban, where Hannah and Emma will go surfing on the beautiful coast. We have a great time on the beach. We take a detour back to Salt Rock and eat at ‘Mo-zam-bik’, a really nice African restaurant. The African food is delicious!
On 31 July, we leave early for St Lucia, do some shopping, and then arrive at Banghazi Lodge early in the afternoon. The weather is lovely, and we decide to relax and read by the pool. Later in the afternoon, we go to the beach and have something to eat there. In the evening, we played a board game together, all four of us. The communal living area of this house is like a museum of animals, skins, and all the items are themed around Africa, right down to the egg cups.
On August 1st, we get up early for breakfast, and at 8 am, we're picked up for a game drive to and through Cape Vidal. The weather's lovely, and with a French couple, we let John drive us through the beautiful nature. We stopped for coffee and spotted zebras, wildebeest, deer, buffalo, a rhinoceros, and many monkeys. The temperature is around 20 degrees, and by lunchtime, a delicious braai awaits us on the beach. Our guide, John, prepared it for us over a fire he made himself. As we tidy up, it starts to rain, after which we begin our journey back, dry in the jeep. It was a wonderful trip with lots of explanations about the nature and the animals we saw. In the evening, we eat at Barraca, enjoying a delicious soup, focaccia, and salad. We can sit outside with a glass of wine until late.
On August 2nd, we were surprised by the sun and a lovely temperature (23 degrees), and we decided to go to the beach. Swimming in the sea was impossible due to the huge surf; we had to hold onto each other to avoid being knocked over. In the afternoon, we took a boat trip where we saw hippos and a crocodile. On the way back, we had a flat tyre, which we had changed at a petrol station. We ate at John Dorry's and read a bit before going to sleep.
On 3rd August, after breakfast (first, getting a puncture repaired), we set off for Swaziland. After an extensive passport check, we arrived at the ‘Hlane Royal National Park’ in the early afternoon. It's a beautiful park with huts that have no electricity and lots of oil lamps. We can still take hot showers, though, as the huts are supplied with gas. After a lovely sunset by the lake, we saw hippos and heard many birds singing. We had dinner on the premises, and it was well catered for. Later in the evening, we had a glass of wine by the ‘woodfire’ and went to sleep. We noticed that people in Swaziland seem less friendly/content than in South Africa.
On August 4th, we get up early (5:15) for a game drive with a few other people. It's cold in the early morning, and we see lions, elephants, and rhinos. Fantastic! After breakfast at 9 am, we sit in the sun for a bit and then head to the border, where we are back in South Africa! We arrive back in Nelspruit in the early afternoon at ‘Loerie's Call Guesthouse’ and relax in the sun by the pool. We have dinner at the posh ‘Orange’ restaurant (near our guesthouse) and eat trout.
On August 5th, after a delightful breakfast, we depart and drive part of the Panorama Route via Whiteriver and Hazyview. We arrive at ‘Thornhill Safari Lodge’ after a long and bumpy road. It's another sunny day, and after checking in, we have lunch with some other Dutch people. Later in the afternoon, we are taken for a game drive and see lions, giraffes, buffalo, and monkeys. Around 8 pm, we are sitting with 28 other Dutch people... in a large circle and are served a 3-course dinner. In the centre is a large fire around which we sit in a small group and have another glass of wine.
On August 6th, we get up at 4:30 AM and are taken to a park where we once again enjoy the beautiful nature and the many animals we have seen. In the early morning, it's incredibly cold in the open jeep, but as the drive progresses, we can gradually start shedding layers of clothing and enjoy coffee halfway through the journey. After breakfast, we spend the rest of the day around the swimming pool (very cold water) and play card games. Around 8 PM, the whole group has dinner together again.
On 7 August, we continue the Panorama Route and pass three ‘Rondavels and Potholes’, which are beautiful, time-worn rock formations.... Via ‘God's Window’ with a splendid view, we arrive in Sabie at the end of the afternoon and are welcomed by the English owners of ‘Porcupine Ridge Guesthouse’ with a drink. This house has a lovely garden full of blooming shrubs and (fruit) trees. In the evening, we eat the real African Bobotie at ‘The Wild Fig Tree’.
On 8 August, after breakfast, we set off for Johannesburg, a journey of 435 kilometres. On the way, we do some shopping and have lunch in the sunshine. We arrive at ‘Melrose Guesthouse’ in the early afternoon. We go for a stroll around the neighbourhood in search of some nice shops, which, unfortunately, aren’t there. Early in the evening, we’re picked up by Pieter (a distant relative) and on the way he shows us the company where he works. We then drive to the heavily secured ‘estate’ where he lives with his family and are treated to a delicious African meal.
9 August is ‘Women's Day’, and we'll walk to Gautrain to catch the ‘hop-on-hop-off’ bus for a tour of Johannesburg. The weather is lovely, and we can sit at the top of the bus to get a good view of the (business) city. We'll get off at Carlton Centre and visit the Apartheid Museum. Very worthwhile and impressive! Via Braamfontein (and a terrace) we'll take a taxi back to our house. Unfortunately, almost all the shops were closed today. We'll eat at Nuno's on 7th Street and have a delicious meal there!
10 August: we have our last breakfast in South Africa in glorious weather. We walked to Rosebank Mall to do some last-minute shopping and, in the early afternoon, drove through Soweto in Thomas's van (a tip from relatives). It was a special journey, during which we saw everything from very poor to reasonably well-off families and ‘homes’. We also visited a church and a crèche, right in the middle of the township. We were given a tour by a Soweto resident about life in this part of Johannesburg, which is home to 2 million people. Unbelievable!
At 6 PM we were dropped off at the airport where it turned out we could start our flight via Munich with a 2-hour delay. Because of this, we missed our connection to Brussels and could be picked up from Rotterdam on 11 August at 1:30 PM. Tired, but very satisfied! All in all, it was a wonderful experience for the four of us to be able to make this very varied trip!
E. van der Toorn